Tomato blight doesn’t just hit tomatoes—it can spread to potatoes too, since they’re part of the same plant family. You can actually smell blight early on; it gives off a musty, old basement kind of odor. One of the first signs of tomato blight? Dark spots with yellow halos on the lower leaves—like tiny storm clouds brewing.

Tomato blight travels fast in wet, humid weather, kind of like a flu outbreak in a crowded subway. Slugs and snails can help spread the disease as they slither from leaf to leaf. Some gardeners swear by baking soda sprays to keep the blight at bay—cheap, easy, and chemical-free.

The Latin name for late blight is ”Phytophthora infestans”—which literally means “plant destroyer.” Blight spores can hitch a ride on your gardening tools, so wipe those trowels clean. Brown, shriveled leaves near the bottom of your plant might mean the blight’s already moved in.

If your tomatoes look like they’ve been bruised or sunburned, it might be early blight at work. Pics of Tomato Blight often show black concentric rings—like tree rings, but deadly. Rainwater splashing up from the soil can carry blight spores right onto your leaves.

Early blight and late blight aren’t the same thing—early blight shows up first but spreads slower. Tomatoes with strong airflow around them get sick less often—think of it like giving them fresh air in a hospital room. Mulch isn’t just for looks; it blocks soil-borne spores from jumping onto your plants.

Compost piles can be trouble if you toss in infected tomato plants—heat doesn’t always kill blight. Some heirloom tomatoes are more resistant to blight than others—good genes make a difference. Pics of Tomato Blight can be handy when you're trying to ID those nasty leaf spots.

Tomato blight can survive winter in leftover plant debris, waiting like a sneaky villain. One infected plant can ruin an entire tomato bed, like a bad apple in a barrel. Copper sprays work—but go easy; too much can build up in the soil and harm worms.

The leaves might be the first to go, but blight doesn’t stop there—it heads straight for the fruit. Tomatoes with blight can look fine on the outside but rot from the inside out. Crop rotation is a must—never plant tomatoes in the same spot two years in a row.

Raised beds and vertical trellises help keep plants dry and upright—less chance for blight to sneak in. Pics of Tomato Blight help gardeners recognize early symptoms before it’s too late. Late blight spreads like wildfire—one rainy weekend can wipe out an entire patch.

Wind can carry blight spores for miles—like microscopic seeds on the breeze. You don’t have to rip out the whole plant at first sight; trimming infected leaves might give you more time. Tomato varieties like ‘Iron Lady’ and ‘Mountain Magic’ are bred to resist blight better than others.

Fungicides work best before you even see symptoms—blight prevention is half the battle. Those black spots? They’re actually mold colonies feasting on weakened plant tissue. Blight can turn juicy tomatoes into mushy, brown nightmares in a matter of days.

Watering your tomatoes at the base, not from above, makes a big difference in disease prevention. Sunshine helps dry the leaves faster—blight hates a sunny, breezy afternoon. Some gardeners keep a “blight diary” each year to track which varieties got hit hardest.

Blight is sneaky—it often starts on the underside of leaves where you’re least likely to check. Don’t compost infected tomatoes; bag them up and toss them in the trash. Pics of Tomato Blight can be a good tool for teaching kids about plant health in the garden.

You can cut away blight-infected fruit and still eat the good parts, but cook them just to be safe. Greenhouses aren’t immune to blight—spores can still sneak in on shoes or tools. Rainy summers almost guarantee a blight outbreak—especially if you’re growing in low-lying areas.

Blight doesn’t just affect backyard gardens—it caused the Irish Potato Famine in the 1840s. Tomatoes stressed by drought or poor soil are more likely to get sick. Eggplants and peppers aren’t affected by tomato blight, even though they’re in the same family.

Removing the lower leaves once your tomato plant starts fruiting helps airflow and disease control. Rotating your crops with beans or leafy greens can help break the blight cycle. Pics of Tomato Blight aren’t just gross—they’re educational tools for better gardening.

Early blight leaves “target-like” rings on leaves, while late blight looks more like water damage. Blight spores need moisture to germinate—dry soil means safer tomatoes. Check plants every few days during wet weather—it only takes 24 hours for blight to take hold.

Some blight-resistant tomatoes taste just as good as the fragile heirlooms—don’t let the name fool you. If your neighbor has blight, you’re at risk too—spores don’t respect fences. Gardeners who prune their tomato plants regularly report fewer problems with blight.

Tomatoes grown in containers are easier to protect from blight—less soil contact and better drainage. A vinegar spray won’t cure blight, but it can help lower the leaf’s surface pH to make it less hospitable. Always water in the morning—wet leaves overnight are a perfect blight playground.

Even if you lose a plant or two, learning to spot the signs from Pics of Tomato Blight will make you a better grower. One of the best defenses against tomato blight is simply planting strong, healthy seedlings. Regular cleanup, fresh mulch, and sharp eyes are a gardener’s best weapons against this sneaky disease.